The BBC’s Olympic Reporter, Nick Hope, talks to Shauna Coxsey about the Tokyo Games and using I Am Team GB to inspire the next generation of climbers
“The Olympics are the pinnacle, they create this incredible, magical buzz and it still feels totally surreal that I’ll be part of that!”
Even some 16 months after Shauna Coxsey was officially selected for the Team GB Tokyo 2020 squad the 28-year-old admits she is still is a state of “disbelief” about the fact her dream will finally become reality next month.
“I started climbing at four and competing from seven, but I always felt a little sad that my sport wasn’t part of such a prestigious event,” recalls the double world championship bronze medallist.
“Honestly, I didn’t expect it to be during my professional career, but when the announcement was made (in 2016) it was a huge surprise for most in my sport and to be sat here now, in my Team GB kit, is insane and might never sink in!”
Britain’s most decorated elite climber is keen to emphasise that although not everyone will go on to become an Olympian she feels that the movement can be used to “transcend” traditional obstacles around participation.
That is why Coxsey believes the ‘I Am Team GB’ campaign has a vital role to play in guiding the nation back to regular physical activity after a “challenging” 16 months since the initial lockdown.
Team GB and presenting partner Toyota are marking one month to go until the Tokyo Olympics by launching the ‘I Am Team GB’ which, through the ‘Festival of Sport’, aims to inspire people across the UK to ‘Get Up and Get Active’.
There will be free and fun events held around the country across the weekend of August 14-15.
“I think what Toyota and Team GB are doing, encouraging people from the UK to ‘Get Up and Get Active’ is so important,” she says.
“The Olympics starts that participation process and giving people easy ways to get involved, come together and try things which can become passions or hobbies is great.
“The British public are absolutely amazing and so supportive so to have a campaign like this is a great way to give back and I can’t wait to see people come to the events and get involved across all the sports.”
Coxsey was just three years old when she became hooked by the sport, having watched a film about French free climber Catherine Destivelle’s death-defying rope-free feats in Mali.
She was inspired and after claiming her first national title at the age of nine went on to compete internationally in her early teens.
Overall World Cup bronze in her favoured bouldering discipline followed in 2012. That proved her potential and Coxsey went on to claim the overall title in 2016 as well as 2017.
During that time and in the years since climbing was officially granted a place in the Olympic programme for the Tokyo Games the sport has undergone a transformation in the UK.
A Sport England survey in 2016 suggested that weekly climbing participation numbers were similar to those taking part in football and prior to the initial lockdown last year use of indoor climbing centres was said to be increasing by around 20% annually.
“It’s grown to a point which I never expected in my lifetime,” says Coxsey.
“When I started it was a really small sport and I spent all my time explaining what ‘going climbing’ actually meant, now that’s totally changed. The uptake has been incredible and the more it grows the more excited I get!
“Seeing more climbing walls open is amazing and there’s also a really big push for greater inclusivity and accessibility around climbing which is great to see.
“This is a sport for all and it’s amazing that I have woman and girls coming up to me who feel they can achieve as much as anyone else and there’s nothing standing in their way.”
The Sheffield-based climber is keen to boost participation numbers across all climbing disciplines in the years ahead and recently revealed her own ambitions away from competitive climbing.
Earlier this month she announced that Tokyo would be her first and last Olympic Games as she is keen to experience other aspects of the sport – like rock climbing.
“Climbing in the Olympics is a three-discipline sport and I was just a one discipline specialist so it’s taken an incredible amount of commitment and dedication to transition,” she said.
“It’s been difficult and I’ve had a lot of niggling injuries along the way but don’t regret it for one minute and I’m proud of everything I’ve achieved in my career.
“Although Paris (2024) isn’t far away I don’t think I’ll ever get a bigger event to end on and although it’s been a hard decision, it feels like the right time.”
And what of the prospects of a golden goodbye to competitive sport climbing?
“The idea of winning a medal is really nice, but they’ve never been the focus, it’s always been about the performance,” she says.
“It’s been such an honour and privilege to be involved in this monumental time for the sport and if by competing at the Olympics I can inspire a few people out there to go and try the sport, then I’ll be incredibly proud.”
Nick Hope - @NickHopeTV
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